MATERIALS
• 2.5 mm - 1/B crochet hook
• 5 different yarns
• leftover black yarn for the eyebrow
• 6 mm black safety eyes
• thin juta yarn or hemp twine
• Tapestry or large sewing needle
• Stitch marker (optional, I use yarn)
• Fiberfill stuffing
YARNS
• Alize, Cotton Gold 1 Cream
• Cheval Blanc Sunny 032 Yellow
• Cheval Blanc Sunny 004 Red
• Cheval Blanc Sunny 011 White
• Cheval Blanc Sunny 042 Brown
Finished size and gauge
Nora is approximately 19 cm / 7,5 inches tall. Exact gauge is not necessary for this
project. If you use a smaller hook with thinner yarn, the doll might be smaller. The
doll’s measurements will change depending on the hook and yarn you use. It’s
important to crochet tight, to avoid the stuffing showing up after the filling.
Notes and abbreviations
The pattern is written in US American crochet terms. You will use these stitches:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
trc = treble crochet
sk = skip
BLO = back loops only
FLO = front loops only
FO = fasten off
Yo = yarn over
Rep = repeat
dec = decrease (sc2tog)
Invisible decrease: A method of decreasing. Insert hook into the front loop of the
next two stitches and pull a loop up through both. Yarn over and pull through last
two loops left on the hook.
Front post double crochet: Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the
posts of the first and second double crochet of the row below, and then from back
to front again between the posts of the second and third stitches, yo and draw
yarn through and complete dc.
Nora is a “one piece doll”, she is crocheted from her head to her toes in one piece
(except her hair).
The doll is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise instructed.
Head
Row 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6)
(Instead of a magic ring, you can
form a ring with 3 ch.)
Row 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12)
Row 3. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 6 times
(18)
Row 4. {sc in the next 2 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (24)
Row 5. {sc in the next 3 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (30)
Row 6. {sc in the next 4 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (36)
Row 7. {sc in the next 5 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (42)
Row 8. {sc in the next 6 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (48)
Row 9. {sc in the next 7 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (54)
Row 10-16. sc into each stitch around (54)
Row 17. {sc in the next 7 sts, dec} repeat 6
times (48)
Row 18. {sc in the next 6 sts, dec} repeat 6
times (42)
Row 19. {sc in the next 5 sts, dec} repeat 6
times (36)
Row 20. {sc in the next 4 sts, dec} repeat 6
times (30)
Row 21. {sc in the next 3 sts, dec} repeat 6
times (24)
Place safety eyes between rows 15-16.
Put the eyes 12 sts apart.
Row 22. {sc in the next 2 sts, dec} repeat 6
times (18)
Start to stuff the head
Row 23. {sc in the next st, dec} repeat 6
times (12)
Continue to stuff the head firmly
Row 24. sc into each sts around FLO (12)
Body & Shoulders
You are about to start to crochet her body and shoulders at the same time by
increasing until the required stitch count. You will need to change colour in each
row. For a more seamless look you may use the needle joint method or you can
simply finish each row with slip stitch join which is way faster.
The following pictures will show the method of the needle joint (starting with the
head of the doll) but feel free to use any other ones you feel comfortable with.
Join with a sl st with red yarn to start the body and shoulders, and change colour
at the end of each row.
Row 1. RED {sc in the next st, inc} rep 6 times (18)
Row 2. WHITE {sc in the next 2 sts, inc} rep 6 times (24)
Row 3. RED {sc in the next 3 sts, inc} rep 6 times (30)
Row 4. WHITE {sc in the next 4 sts, inc} rep 6 times (36)
Row 5. RED {sc in the next 5 sts, inc} rep 6 times (42)
Row 6. WHITE {sc in the next 6 sts, inc} rep 6 times (48)
Row 7. RED sc into each (48)
Now you need to mark the places where you will start to crochet the arms and the
body of the doll. Place the head in front of you and divide the last round into three
parts. Two for the arms and one for the body. You have to be very carefully with
the marking otherwise the doll’s head will look another way as her body. Flatten
the body part and make sure after you placed your stitch markers or yarns for the
arms, they are perfectly in line with the head. Count 10 stitches on each side for
the arms and you will have 28 stitches for the body.
If your last stitch ends up on the body opening, then finish the shirt/body first as
follows below. But if your last stitch ends up on any of the arms’ openings, then
fasten off and cut the yarn and make the arms first. When you reach your marker
just simply join the other side with a single crochet.
Row 8. WHITE sc into each (28)
Row 9. RED {sc in the next 3, inc} 7 times (35)
Row 10. WHITE sc into each (35)
Row 11. RED {sc in the next 4, inc} 7 times (42)
Row 12-13. WHITE/RED sc into each (42)
Row 14. WHITE {sc in the next 6, inc} 6 times (48)
Row 15. RED sc into each (48)
Fasten off
Arms
Join with skin colour 3 or 4 stitches before your
stitch marker.
Row 1-11. sc into each stitch (10)
Row 12. {sc into 4, inc} 2 times (12)
Row 13-14. sc into each stitches (12)
Row 15. {sc into 2, dec} 3 times (9)
Start to stuff the arm but just with a small
amount of fiberfill otherwise the arms would
stick out from the body.
Row 16. {sc into 1, dec} 3 times (6)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for closing the hole
by stitching back and forth across the opening, use
a needle. Weave the end of the yarn into the arm.
Make another one.
Body
Now you continue with the body of the doll from row
15. Change to the skin colour and work back loops
only.
Row 16. BLO sc into each (48)
Row 17-19. sc into each (48)
Row 20. {sc into 4, dec} 8 times (40)
Row 21-22. sc into each (40)
Start to stuff the doll’s upper body part: the neck,
shoulders, chest. Though it is a little bit tricky, stuff
the shoulders thoroughly.
Legs
Flatten the doll and mark the places of the legs: 15
stitches for both legs and 5-5 stitches between
them on both sides.
After you marked the places for the legs you need
to check where your stitch is. If your last stitch ends
up on any of the legs’ openings then don’t cut yarn
and continue with the leg as follows. If you’re in the
5 stitch place you need to cut yarn but leave a long
tail as you need to close that hole later. In this case
join with a sl st in the back for the doll’s leg.
Row 1-2. sc into each (15)
When you reach your marker just simply join the
other side with a single crochet.
Both of the doll’s legs are pointing into her
midline. To have this look we need to flatten the
leg we have already crocheted and find, maybe
mark the sides of the leg.
On the inside of the legs you need to increase but
only one time, and on the outside you need to
decrease only one time. So the number of the
stitches will remain the same (15) but this method
will bend the legs into the midline of the doll.
(As we can’t start the leg at the same place, I can’t give you precise
numbers where to increase or decrease.)
Row 3. sc into each, inc inside and dec
outside (15)
Row 4. sc into each WITHOUT inc or dec (15)
Row 5. sc into each, inc inside, dec outside
(15)
Row 6. sc into each WITHOUT inc or dec (15)
Row 7. sc into each, inc inside, dec outside
(15)
Row 8. sc into each WITHOUT inc or dec (15)
Row 9. sc into each, inc inside, dec outside
(15)
Row 10-11. sc into each WITHOUT inc or dec (15)
Start to stuff the leg and the body
Row 12. dc each sts until you have 6 sts.
Fasten off and leave long tail for sewing. Stuff the
leg firmly by using the point of a pencil or
something thin. Using the yarn and a needle close
up the hole by stitching back and forth across the
opening. Weave yarn into the legs. Before you start
the other leg, close the five stitches hole between
the two legs. Stuff the body firmly before closing it.
Skirt
Go back to row 16th of the body where you started to crochet the body into back
loops only. You can see there the front loops wherein we’re going to start
crocheting the skirt.
Join with a sl st with yellow yarn somewhere at the back of the doll as shown in
the picture:
Row 1. ch 3, dc into next st, 3 dc into the following st, {dc into next 2, 3 dc
into next} rep along. Join with a sl st at the end.
Row 2. ch 3, dc into next 2, 3 dc into the following st, {dc into next 4, 3 dc into
next} rep along. Join with a sl st at the end.
Row 3. ch 3, dc into next 3, 2 dc into the following st, {dc into next 6, 2 dc into
next} rep along. Join with a sl st at the end.
Row 4. Crochet slip stitches all along.
(You may add some extra rows if you would like to make the skirt longer.)
Eyebrow
With black yarn or thread start in the back of the doll’s head as seen in the picture.
Make sure you have a big knot at the end of your yarn, as it needs to be „stuck” in
her head. It’s okay if some yarn sticks out at the back, the hair will cover it. Make
the first eyebrow as seen in the picture and pull out at the other side of the head.
Make the other eyebrow. Pull out the thread at the back of the head. Fasten off,
weave yarn into the head.
Nose
Place two pins into the 5th holes from both eyes between rows 16-17 (one row
below the eyes). Make a big knot into the end of the yarn, as it needs to be "stuck"
in her head. Embroider her nose where the pins show and when you're ready pull
out the thread at the top of the head and fasten off, weave yarn into the head.
Hair
Row 1. 6 sc into magic ring (6) (Instead of
magic ring, you can form a ring with
3 ch.)
Row 2. 2 sc in each sts around (12)
Row 3. {sc in the next st, inc} rep 6
times(18)
Row 4. {sc in the next 2 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (24)
Row 5. {sc in the next 3 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (30)
Row 6. {sc in the next 4 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (36)
Row 7. {sc in the next 5 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (42)
Row 8. {sc in the next 6 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (48)
Row 9. {sc in the next 7 sts, inc} repeat 6
times (54)
Row 10-13. sc into each stitch around (54)
Fasten off.
With the following steps we will shape the
bangs and the rest of the hair. Count 17
stitches from where you fastened off and place
a marker into the 17th stitch. From the marker
count 21 stitches and place the second
marker after the 21st stitch. Now there are 33
stitches (markers included) on one side and 21
stitches on the other side of the two markers.
The 21 stitches side will form the bangs, and
on the 33 stitches side we will continue
crocheting to form the rest of the hair.
We are going to crochet 7 rows between the
markers on the 33 stitches side and will cut off
at the end of each rows instead of turning the
piece and crocheting on the other side as
well. That will give us that beautiful plain look
as the whole hair is crocheted in rounds.
You will need to weave each ends into each
following rows: place the prev row’s tail next
to the few last stitches you’re about to crochet
as shown in the pictures below.
Place your hook into the second marker and
crochet as follows:
Row 1-3. sc into each 33 stitches
Row 4. {sc into 3, inc} 8 times, sc into
last st
Row 5-7 sc into each
At the end of row 7 crochet 2 extra sc into the last stitch and crochet around the
hair on the sides and the bangs between them. When you reach the beginning of
the 7th row crochet 3 sc into the corner, crochet a few more sc continuously and
finish off with a sl st. Cut off the extra yarns.
Hat
The hat is made of hemp or juta yarn. The juta I used
was a very thin one and I used 2.5 mm / 1/B crochet
hook for it but any other yarn would be perfect.
Join with sl st at the end of each rounds.
Row 1. 14 dc into ml (14)
Row 2. ch 2, 2 dc into each st (28)
Row 3. ch 1 {sc in the next st, inc} rep all along (42)
Row 4. ch 3 {dc into next 5, inc} rep all along (49)
Row 5-7. ch 3, dc into each (49)
Row 8. ch 3 {(3 trc into next st) twice, 2 trc into
following} rep all along
Bag
The bag is also made of hemp or juta yarn but any
other yarn can work. It’s also time for those
front post double crochets! Do not work continuously,
join with sl st at the end of each rows.
Row 1. 14 dc into ml (14)
Row 2. ch 3, inc each st (28)
Row 3. ch 1, sc into each (28)
Row 4. ch 3, dc into each (28)
Row 5. ch 2, dc into the same stitch, *{sk one dc,
fpdc around next , fpdc around the prev
skipped dc.} cont from *, fpdc into last dc.
Row 6. fpdc all around.
Row 7. Rep row 5.
Row 8-9. sc into each st. Do not fasten off.
Ch 18, flatten the bag and join with a sl st on the other
side of the bag. Ch 1 and crochet 18-20 sc around the
18 chains. Join with a sl st.
